Jaldapara

Jaldapara National Park covers about 216 sq km of tall elephant grass and riverine forest on the Torsa floodplain in West Bengal's Alipurduar district. It is home to the state's largest population of Indian one-horned rhinoceros. Travellers come for dawn jeep safaris through the grassland, for elephants, gaur and deer at the forest edge, and for a bird list that runs past 240 species.

Madarihat, on the main highway, is the park's gateway town. The quieter western side around Salkumar is where the forest comes right down to the rivers.

• Sisamara River View Forest Villa: at Munshipara in the Salkumar forest, on the bank of the Sisamara river, with forest on three sides and peacocks often on the lawn. It has four rooms. The two Tong Houses are 270 sq ft wooden rooms raised on stilts in the Dooars style, each with a private balcony over the river. The two Royal Cottages are 280 sq ft at ground level with a shared balcony. All four are air-conditioned with attached bathrooms and take up to five guests with an extra mattress. Meals are ordered rather than bundled, as set Bengali menus: the Pandit Moshai, Jamindari and Maharaja bhoj, with mutton and country chicken. The hosts put the nearest safari gate about 2.5 km away and arrange forest and elephant safaris on request. Pets are welcome for a small charge. Rooms start at ₹3,500 a night.

If you want a homestay in Jaldapara that feels part of the forest rather than the highway, the river balconies here are the reason to come.

• From NJP: about 125 km to Madarihat, roughly 3 hours by car. Allow a little longer to reach the Salkumar side.
• From Bagdogra: about 134 to 137 km, around 3 hours 15 minutes.
• From Siliguri: Madarihat lies on the Siliguri–Hasimara highway. Buses on the Siliguri–Alipurduar route pass through it.
• By train: Hasimara station is about 11 km from the park entrance at Madarihat. For our villa, Falakata and New Alipurduar stations are each about 23 km away. The overnight Kanchankanya Express from Sealdah reaches Hasimara in the late morning.
• From the Gorumara side: Lataguri to Madarihat takes about 1 hour 45 minutes by car.

• November to March: the best months. Cooler weather, thinner foliage and shorter grass make animals easier to spot.
• April to early June: hot, but wildlife is active at dawn and dusk.
• 16 June to 15 September: the park is closed for the monsoon and breeding season.
• Late September and October: lush and green, though the tall grass hides a lot.

• Jeep safari: open gypsies carry up to six people, in morning and afternoon slots of about 1.5 hours. Book online through the West Bengal Forest Development Corporation, or through your host.
• Elephant safari: limited early-morning rides that have traditionally started from the Hollong area inside the park. Demand is high, so ask about availability well ahead.
• Chilapata forest: across the Torsa, an elephant corridor between Jaldapara and Buxa, with the ruins of the Nalraja Garh fort.
• South Khairbari Leopard Rescue Centre: near Madarihat, a home for injured and ageing big cats.
• Totopara: about 22 km from Madarihat, the home village of the Toto people.
• Buxa Tiger Reserve: about 40 km away, with Buxa Fort and Jayanti.
• Phuentsholing: the Bhutan border town, about 30 km and an hour away.
• Rajabhatkhawa: our hosts put its museum about 51 km away.

• Closed days: safaris do not run on Thursdays.
• Monsoon closure: the park shuts from 16 June to 15 September every year.
• Paperwork: carry photo ID for safari bookings. Indian and foreign visitors pay different entry fees.
• Start time: morning slots start around dawn, so be at the gate early. Queues at the counter can be long in season.
• Hollong Lodge: the forest lodge inside the park was damaged by fire in June 2024. Check the current status of anything based there.

On day 1, arrive by noon and spend the evening by the river watching birds from the balcony. On day 2, take the dawn jeep safari, rest at midday, then visit Chilapata or the leopard rescue centre. On day 3, visit Totopara or Phuentsholing before the train from Hasimara or New Alipurduar.

When is Jaldapara National Park closed?
Every year from 16 June to 15 September, and safaris do not run on Thursdays.

What is the best time to see rhinos in Jaldapara?
November to March on an early-morning safari, when the grass is shorter and the foliage thinner.

How far is Jaldapara from NJP?
About 125 km, roughly 3 hours by road. Hasimara is the nearest railway station to the main gate.

How do I book a Jaldapara safari?
Online through the West Bengal Forest Development Corporation's safari booking, or ask your host to arrange it.

Jaldapara or Gorumara?
Jaldapara is larger and has more rhinos. Gorumara is smaller and closer to NJP, with watchtower visits. Many people do both, about 1 hour 45 minutes apart.

Is a homestay in Jaldapara better than a lodge in Madarihat?
Madarihat is closest to the main gate. A forest stay such as Sisamara is quieter and still close to a safari gate.