Lataguri & Gorumara

Lataguri is a village in the Dooars of northern West Bengal, in Jalpaiguri district, about 80 km from NJP. It sits just outside Gorumara National Park, and the park's safari and watchtower tickets are issued here. Travellers come for rhino, gaur and elephants at the salt licks, for sal forest along the Murti and Jaldhaka rivers, and for slow afternoons among tea gardens and forest.

Gorumara is a compact park of about 80 sq km, best known for its Indian rhinoceros. In 2009 the Ministry of Environment and Forests named it the best protected area in India.

• Nature Notes Dooars Resort: on Eco Road in Danga Para, off Neora More, about 6.5 km and nine minutes from the Gorumara gates. It has nine rooms around a lawn: one 250 sq ft four-bed room, two triples and six king doubles, some with first-floor balconies. All meals are included in veg and non-veg, from ₹1,400 per person. There is a swimming pool, bonfires and barbecues; the pool and air conditioning are billed separately. Check-in is from 11 am, and pets are welcome for a small charge.
• Dikshunyopur Eco Stay: beside the Neora river at Neora, Lataguri, about a 10-minute drive from Gorumara. It has seven bedrooms, so it suits families and larger groups. The hosts arrange jungle safaris, boating, birding, cycling, village walks and bonfires, and there is free Wi-Fi and parking. Its listing mentions glimpses of Kanchenjunga from the balcony on clear days. Meals are included from ₹1,900 per person.

• From NJP: about 80 km, roughly 1 hour 45 minutes. Drive via Gajoldoba, or via Sevoke and the Coronation Bridge, to Chalsa, then on to Lataguri.
• From Bagdogra: about 72 km by our hosts' measure. Allow about 30 minutes more than from NJP, because the airport is on the far side of Siliguri.
• From Siliguri: buses run from the Tenzing Norgay bus terminal on Hill Cart Road to Chalsa and Lataguri.
• By train: New Mal Junction is the nearest major station, about 30 km away. The overnight Kanchankanya Express from Sealdah reaches it in the morning. Lataguri also has its own small station on the local line.
• From Malbazar: about 28 km via Chalsa.

• November to March: the best months, cool and dry, with thinner foliage that makes animals easier to spot.
• April to early June: hot, but dawn and dusk sightings are good.
• 16 June to 15 September: Gorumara and the surrounding sanctuaries are closed for the monsoon and breeding season.
• Mid-September to October: very green, but sightings are harder in the dense growth.

Gorumara is seen mainly from watchtowers, by jeep. Each visit lasts about two hours with a guide.

• Jatraprasad and Rhino Point: one trip covers both, overlooking salt licks where rhino and gaur gather.
• Medla watchtower: reached by bullock cart from Kalipur eco village.
• Chandrachur: a grassland tower with its own salt lick.
• Chukchuki: between Ramsai and Lataguri, the birdwatchers' tower.
• Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary: about 26 km away across the Murti. The last afternoon visit there ends with a Santhal dance.
• Jeep safari: a buffer-zone drive, separate from the watchtower visits.
• Lataguri Nature Interpretation Centre: for the park's flora and fauna.
• Murti river: a riverside stretch near the forest lodges.
• Samsing tea gardens: about 36 km away, with Suntalekhola nearby.
• Jhalong and Bindu: on the Jaldhaka, looking across to the hills of Bhutan.
• Jaldapara: about 1 hour 45 minutes east.

• Booking: buy tickets at the Lataguri counters or online through the West Bengal Forest Development Corporation. Watchtower and jeep counters are separate.
• Limits: about 40 visitors are allowed per entry, and each jeep takes six.
• Paperwork: one member of each group must be present with a copy of photo ID.
• Closed days: no safaris or watchtower visits on Thursdays.
• Queues: they build quickly in season, so reach the counter early.
• Fees: foreign nationals pay a higher entry fee.

On day 1, arrive by lunch, take an afternoon watchtower visit to Jatraprasad and Rhino Point, and end at the pool or bonfire. On day 2, do a dawn jeep safari, then Murti and Chapramari in the afternoon. On day 3, drive to Samsing or Jhalong and Bindu before heading back.

When is Gorumara National Park closed?
From 16 June to 15 September every year, and on Thursdays for safaris and watchtower visits.

How do I book a Gorumara watchtower visit?
At the Lataguri ticket counters, or online through the West Bengal Forest Development Corporation's safari booking.

How far is Lataguri from NJP?
About 80 km, roughly 1 hour 45 minutes by car.

Which Gorumara watchtower is best for rhinos?
Jatraprasad and Rhino Point, which overlook the salt licks. Chukchuki is the pick for birds.

Should I stay in Lataguri or Murti?
Lataguri is where the tickets are issued, and it has hotels and dhabas along the highway. Murti is smaller, with forest lodges beside the river.

Is there a homestay in Lataguri near the park?
Both our stays are small resorts about ten minutes from the gates, with meals included.