Buxa & Alipurduar

Buxa Tiger Reserve covers about 760 sq km of forest in Alipurduar district, northern West Bengal, running up from the Dooars plains to the Sinchula hills on the Bhutan border. People come for the forest and its birds, the trek to the ruined Buxa Fort, boat rides on the Sikiajhora stream and the slow, green rhythm of village life on the reserve's edge.

The reserve was created in 1983 as India's fifteenth tiger reserve. Tigers are rarely seen, but the forest is an important elephant corridor between India and Bhutan, and surveys have recorded around 284 bird species, from the rufous-necked hornbill to the Amur falcon.

Our stay sits on open farmland on the southern edge of the reserve.

• BroZ Bonolata Firmstay: a working farm at Uttar Panialguri, close to Sikhiya Jhora Eco Park, with six rooms (one quad, two doubles, three triples) opening onto a shared balcony that looks into the trees. All three meals, veg or non-veg, are cooked from the land and included, from about Rs 1,300 per person. Jungle safaris, bird walks and village trails are arranged on request, and it welcomes children, older guests and pets.

It is a homestay in Buxa for people who want fields, birdsong and home food rather than a hotel by the highway.

• From NJP or Siliguri: Siliguri is about 180 km by road, along the highway east towards Alipurduar. Many travellers prefer the train from New Jalpaiguri to Alipurduar Junction or New Alipurduar.
• From Bagdogra: the nearest airport, about 195 km away.
• From Alipurduar: Rajabhatkhawa, the reserve's gateway, is a short drive of about 11 to 14 km. Sikiajhora is about 15 km from Rajabhatkhawa, and about 60 km (two hours) from New Alipurduar.
• Entry: there is a forest check post at Rajabhatkhawa, where entry permits are issued.

October to early April. Winter brings clear light, cool mornings and, around our farm, mustard fields that turn the whole landscape yellow. The reserve closes to tourism for the monsoon, from 15 June to 15 September.

• Buxa Fort: ruins at about 867 m on the Sinchula range, reached by a 5 km uphill walk from Santalabari. It once guarded the trade route into Bhutan and later served as a detention camp during India's freedom movement.
• Lepchakha: a hill village about half an hour's walk beyond the fort, with long views over the Dooars plains.
• Jayanti: a forest village on the Jayanti river, roughly 12 to 15 km from Rajabhatkhawa, with the Bhutan hills rising across the riverbed. The 13 km forest trek from Buxa to Jayanti passes the Mahakal cave.
• Sikiajhora: a winding stream inside the reserve where small boats take you deep into the forest; it is elephant country, so stay with your guide.
• Rajabhatkhawa: the Nature Interpretation Centre and a watchtower where elephants and grazing animals sometimes come out.
• Birding: the reserve's rivers and wetlands, including the Raidak and Jayanti, are habitat for migratory birds.

• Permits: forest entry permits are mandatory, and safaris, treks and camping need prior permission and a local guide. Your hosts can help arrange them.
• Wildlife: this is elephant country, and elephants move through the fringe villages. Never walk forest roads after dark.
• Monsoon: rivers rise fast in the hills; even outside the closure, check road conditions after heavy rain.
• Cash: carry enough from Alipurduar.

• Day 1: Arrive at Alipurduar, settle in at the farm, walk the fields at sunset.
• Day 2: Santalabari, the Buxa Fort trek and Lepchakha.
• Day 3: Jayanti in the morning, Sikiajhora boat ride in the afternoon.

Where is Buxa Tiger Reserve?
In Alipurduar district in northern West Bengal, on the border with Bhutan. Rajabhatkhawa, about 11 to 14 km from Alipurduar, is its main gateway.

How do I reach Buxa from NJP?
Take a train from New Jalpaiguri to Alipurduar Junction or New Alipurduar, or drive about 180 km from Siliguri. Bagdogra is the nearest airport, about 195 km away.

When is Buxa Tiger Reserve closed?
The reserve closes for the monsoon from 15 June to 15 September. October to early April is the best time to visit.

How long is the Buxa Fort trek?
About 5 km uphill from Santalabari. Lepchakha village is around half an hour's walk beyond the fort.

Do I need a permit for Buxa?
Yes. Forest entry permits are mandatory, and safaris and treks need a local guide. Permits are issued at Rajabhatkhawa.

Is there a farm stay near Buxa?
Yes. BroZ Bonolata Firmstay, on Broz Stays, is a working farm near Sikhiya Jhora Eco Park with all meals included from about Rs 1,300 per person.