Lachung

Lachung is a mountain village in Mangan district, North Sikkim, at roughly 2,700 m and about 110 to 125 km by road north of Gangtok, close to the border with Tibet. People go for Yumthang Valley's rhododendrons and the snowfields at Zero Point, and stay on for the village itself: the old monastery, the woollen rugs in the market and the quiet of a Himalayan valley after the day-trippers' jeeps have gone.

• Great View Hotel Lachung: a 14-room hotel with quad, triple and double rooms, a practical base for a group doing the Yumthang and Zero Point run. Rates start at about Rs 1,400 per person; meals are not included in the room rate, so ask about food when you book. Check-in is from 12 noon.

If you have been looking for a homestay in Lachung with space for a whole family in one booking, the quad rooms here are the reason to look.

Every route goes through Gangtok, and the last leg is in the hands of North Sikkim's registered operators.

• From NJP, Siliguri or Bagdogra: drive to Gangtok first, about four to five hours from Bagdogra. New Jalpaiguri (NJP) is the main railhead.
• From Pakyong airport: the closest airport to Gangtok, with taxis onward.
• Gangtok to Lachung: about 110 to 125 km, and usually six hours or more on a mountain road that is not well maintained in places. Mangan, the district headquarters, is about 50 km short of Lachung.
• Vehicles: only Sikkim-registered vehicles from operators approved by North Sikkim Tourism are allowed up. Most travellers take a shared jeep or a reserved package from Gangtok that bundles the vehicle and the permit.

October to May is when most visitors come. Spring, from late March, is when the valley flowers; the rhododendrons at Yumthang bloom from late February to mid-June. Autumn turns the maples and larches red and gold and usually gives the clearest skies. Winter is dry and snowy: January nights fall to about minus 10 degrees Celsius, and heavy snow can shut the road above the village. Avoid the monsoon if you can; July is the wettest month and landslides close roads across North Sikkim.

• Yumthang Valley: about 23 to 25 km north, roughly 1.5 hours by road, at about 3,560 m. It holds the Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary, with more than two dozen rhododendron species, and a hot spring.
• Zero Point (Yume Samdong): a further 23 to 26 km beyond Yumthang, at about 4,660 m (15,300 ft), where the civilian road ends. Most people combine it with Yumthang in one early start.
• Lachung Monastery: about 500 m from the village, founded in the mid-19th century, and a calm hour's visit.
• Lachung market: handwoven rugs and woollen blankets are the thing to look for.
• Seven Sisters Waterfall: on the highway about 32 km out of Gangtok, an easy stop on the way up.
• Katao: about 28 km from Lachung in a military area; it needs separate army permission, so ask your operator whether it is open.

• Permits: Indian visitors need a permit for North Sikkim; registered operators in Gangtok arrange it. Carry original photo ID and passport-size photos. Foreign nationals need a Restricted Area Permit and must travel in a group of two or more through a registered agent.
• Altitude: the village is comfortable for most people, but Zero Point is high. Go up and come back the same day, drink water and keep exertion low.
• Roads: landslides in the monsoon and snow in deep winter can close the road with little notice. Build a spare day into your plans.
• Cash: draw enough cash in Gangtok before heading north.

• Day 1: Gangtok to Lachung via Seven Sisters Waterfall.
• Day 2: Zero Point at first light, Yumthang on the way down.
• Day 3: Monastery and market, then back to Gangtok.

Do I need a permit to visit Lachung?
Yes. Indian visitors need a North Sikkim permit, which registered tour operators in Gangtok arrange with your photo ID and passport photos. Foreign nationals need a Restricted Area Permit and must travel in a group of two or more.

How far is Lachung from Gangtok?
About 110 to 125 km by road, which usually takes six hours or more because of the mountain road.

How far is Yumthang Valley from Lachung?
About 23 to 25 km, roughly an hour and a half by road. Zero Point is a further 23 to 26 km beyond Yumthang.

What is the best time to visit Lachung?
October to May. Come between late February and mid-June for Yumthang's rhododendrons, in autumn for clear skies, and in winter for snow, accepting that roads may close.

Can I drive my own car to Lachung?
No. Only Sikkim-registered vehicles from operators approved by North Sikkim Tourism are allowed, so most people take a shared or reserved jeep from Gangtok.

Is there a homestay in Lachung that can take a large group?
Yes. Great View Hotel Lachung, listed on Broz Stays, has 14 rooms including quad rooms, with rates from about Rs 1,400 per person.