Phadamchen

Phadamchen (also spelt Padamchen) is a small forest village on East Sikkim's Old Silk Route, about 15 km uphill from Rongli and below Zuluk. It is the gentlest night on the circuit: it sits at roughly 7,000 to 8,000 ft, the air is mild, and there are evergreen valleys all round. That makes it a sensible first stop before the climb to Zuluk and Nathang.

Few people linger here, which is exactly its appeal. You get forest trails, birdsong and a night's sleep at a comfortable altitude before the high passes.

Accommodation along the Silk Route is almost entirely village homestays, and Phadamchen is no different.

• Hilly Heaven Homestay at Phadamchen: eight rooms for up to 25 guests. There are Himalayan Family Rooms that sleep four and Misty Valley rooms for two or three. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea and snacks are all included from ₹1,080 per person. Breakfast is vegetarian; lunch and dinner come in veg and non-veg versions. The hosts run bird watching, village walks and evening bonfires, and pets and older travellers are made welcome.

Because the rate covers all meals, a homestay in Phadamchen like this one keeps the day simple. You arrive from Rongli, eat, walk, sleep and leave early for Zuluk.

• From NJP: about 144 km, roughly 5 to 6 hours. The road runs via Sevoke and the Teesta to Rangpo (about 80 km), then about 35 km to Rongli, then up to Phadamchen.
• From Bagdogra: Rangpo is about 84 km from the airport, so allow a similar 5 to 6 hours in all.
• From Siliguri: about 141 km by the same road. Shared taxis run from Siliguri to Rongli.
• From Gangtok: about 80 km, around 3.5 hours via Rongli. Rongli itself is about 69 km by road from Gangtok.
• Vehicle rule: only Sikkim-registered vehicles may go beyond Rongli, so plan to change cars there if you have come up in a West Bengal taxi. A sturdy car such as a Scorpio is recommended for the climb.

• Mid-April to June: pleasant days, with flowering forest on the higher stretches.
• October to November: the clearest skies and the best views on the circuit.
• December to March: Phadamchen stays mild, but snow on the higher road from about January often blocks Zuluk and Nathang.
• July to early September: monsoon fog and a real risk of landslides.

• Forest walks and birding straight from the village, through evergreen valleys. Himalayan black bear and red panda live in these forests, though sightings are rare.
• Eco Nature Park: a pine-forest park about 4.3 km away, roughly 10 minutes by car.
• Kuekhola Falls: a roadside waterfall about 100 ft high on the way up from Rongli.
• Zuluk and its zigzag road: Zuluk sits about 10 km above at around 10,000 ft. Our hosts put the famous loops about 23 km and an hour away.
• Thambi viewpoint: about 14 km beyond Zuluk at around 11,200 ft, the classic spot to look down on the loops.
• Nathang Valley and Kupup Lake further along the circuit, at about 13,500 ft and higher.
• The colonial-era wooden Forest Rest House in the village, an old landmark of the route.

• Permit: a Protected Area Permit is needed beyond Rongli. It is issued at the SDPO office in Rongli and is open to Indian nationals only. Bring two passport-size photos and an original photo ID such as a passport or voter ID; a PAN card is not accepted. The permit is usually arranged through your driver or host.
• Foreign nationals are not allowed on this stretch of the Silk Route because of border restrictions.
• Cash and supplies: Rongli has ATMs, shops and a medical centre. Facilities thin out quickly beyond it, so draw cash there.
• Altitude: at Phadamchen's height altitude sickness is rarely a concern. The point of stopping here is to acclimatise before Nathang.
• Roads: the climb is all hairpins. Avoid driving after dark and allow extra time in the monsoon.

On day 1, drive from NJP or Gangtok to Rongli, collect the permit and reach Phadamchen by afternoon. On day 2, take a morning forest walk, then go up to Zuluk and Thambi. On day 3, cross Nathang and Kupup before heading back down.

Do I need a permit for Phadamchen?
Yes. It lies beyond Rongli, so you need the Protected Area Permit issued at Rongli. It is for Indian nationals only.

How far is Phadamchen from NJP?
About 144 km, roughly 5 to 6 hours via Rangpo and Rongli.

How far is Phadamchen from Gangtok?
About 80 km, around 3.5 hours.

Can foreigners visit Phadamchen and Zuluk?
No. Foreign nationals are not permitted on this stretch of the Silk Route.

Why stay in Phadamchen rather than Zuluk?
It is lower and milder, which makes it a gentler first night and helps you acclimatise before Zuluk and Nathang.

Is a homestay in Phadamchen open in winter?
Phadamchen stays mild, but snow often closes the higher road from January. Check road conditions with your host before you travel.