Zuluk & the Silk Route

Zuluk is a hamlet at about 2,900 m in Pakyong district, East Sikkim, on the old trade road that ran from Kalimpong over the Jelep La pass into Tibet. Travellers come for the road itself, a stack of 32 hairpin bends climbing past Thambi View Point towards Nathang Valley and Kupup, with the Kanchenjunga range on the skyline on a clear morning.

For centuries mule trains carried wool and grain between Kalimpong and the Chumbi valley through Pedong, Aritar and Zuluk, and traders used the village as an overnight halt until the route closed after 1959.

Our stay is in Phadamchen, the village just below Zuluk that most itineraries pass through on the climb.

• BroZ Homes Phadamchen: seven rooms (four deluxe quad rooms for families, two doubles and a triple) opening onto a shared balcony over the hills, each with an attached bathroom and a heater for the cold months. All meals are cooked in the house and included, from about Rs 1,000 per person. It is near enough to drive the zig-zag road early, and far enough away to sleep properly.

If you are after a homestay in Zuluk itself but would rather wake below the crowds, Phadamchen is about 9 km and half an hour from the zig-zag road.

• From NJP, Siliguri or Bagdogra: take NH10 to Rangpo, about 80 km and just under three hours, then go on through Rorathang, Rhenock and Rongli. The full run to Zuluk is about 150 to 160 km and five and a half to six hours. Our Phadamchen stay is about 121 to 130 km from NJP and 125 km from Bagdogra.
• From Kalimpong: through Algarah, Pedong, Rishikhola and Aritar to Rongli, about 58 km and two and a half hours, then roughly 1.5 hours more to Zuluk.
• From Gangtok: about 90 km and four hours over the top via Tsomgo Lake and Nathang Valley.
• Rongli, the nearest town, is where permits are issued; our stay is about 22 km beyond it.

April to June and September to November bring mild days and the clearest air, with rhododendrons on the slopes in spring. Snow arrives from December; the road above Zuluk often closes in January, and snow can last into late March. The monsoon, July to early September, brings fog and landslides and is the season to avoid.

• Phadamchen Eco Nature Park: about 4 km from our stay.
• Quekhola Waterfall: a roadside fall of about 100 ft, roughly 8 km from Phadamchen.
• Zuluk zig-zag road: about 9 km from our stay; the loops are best seen from above.
• Thambi View Point: about 11,200 ft and around 14 km beyond Zuluk, the classic sunrise stop over the hairpins and Kanchenjunga.
• Lungthung and Nathang Valley: Nathang sits at about 13,500 ft, a high grassy bowl that is beautiful under snow.
• Kupup Lake and Old Baba Mandir: at about 13,000 ft and 14,600 ft respectively, near the Jelep La.
• Wildlife: Zuluk lies inside the Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary, home to the red panda, Himalayan bear and the blood pheasant.

• Permits: Zuluk and the upper Silk Route are open to Indian nationals only; foreign nationals are not permitted. Get the permit at the Rongli office or through a registered operator in Gangtok, with original photo ID (voter ID or passport; Aadhaar is not always accepted, so carry both) and passport photos. Reach Rongli early, as the office keeps short hours. Nathu La needs a separate permit.
• Vehicles: a Sikkim-registered vehicle is required. A high-clearance SUV is wise.
• Altitude: the road climbs above 4,000 m within a morning. Spend your first night at Phadamchen or Zuluk before going higher.
• Snow and slides: in winter and the monsoon, check road status with your host the evening before.

• Day 1: NJP to Phadamchen, collecting the permit at Rongli.
• Day 2: Thambi at sunrise, then Nathang, Kupup and Old Baba Mandir.
• Day 3: Quekhola Waterfall, then down to Aritar or on to Gangtok.

Do I need a permit for Zuluk?
Yes. Indian nationals need a permit, issued at Rongli or through a registered operator in Gangtok, with original photo ID and passport photos. Foreign nationals are not allowed on this stretch.

How far is Zuluk from NJP?
About 150 to 160 km via Rangpo and Rongli, which takes five and a half to six hours.

How many hairpin bends does the Zuluk road have?
The famous stretch has 32 sharp hairpin bends, best seen from Thambi View Point.

When does it snow in Zuluk?
Snow usually comes from December, the road above Zuluk often closes in January, and patches can last until late March.

Can I take my own car to Zuluk?
Only Sikkim-registered vehicles are allowed. A privately owned car may be permitted if the owner drives it, but rules change, so confirm before you travel.

Where should I stay on the Silk Route?
Zuluk and Phadamchen are the usual bases from the Rongli side. BroZ Homes Phadamchen, on Broz Stays, has seven rooms with all meals included from about Rs 1,000 per person.