Darjeeling

Darjeeling is a hill town in northern West Bengal at an average of about 2,045 m (6,700 ft), roughly 70 km by road from NJP. People come for sunrise over Kanchenjunga, the world's third-highest peak, about 74 km to the north. They also come for the heritage toy train and for tea gardens whose leaf has carried a protected geographical indication since 2005.

The town itself is busy in season. Staying in a village outside it gives you the same mountains with far more quiet, and the sights are a short drive away.

• Risheehat Moktan Homestay: a four-bedroom family home for up to 14 guests at Risheehat, about 14 to 15 km east of Darjeeling town. Risheehat is a tea estate on a steep slope facing Kanchenjunga, and villagers farm oranges, cardamom and vegetables there. The homestay serves vegetarian breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea, charged separately. It runs bird watching, village walks and bonfire evenings, has parking and welcomes pets. Rooms start at ₹1,300 per person.

A homestay in Darjeeling's outlying villages suits travellers who want tea-garden mornings rather than Mall Road crowds. Keep a car for the days you go into town.

• From NJP: about 70 km by road, usually 3 to 3.5 hours. Taxis and shared jeeps wait at the station.
• From Bagdogra: about 76 to 90 km depending on the route, roughly 3 hours. Use the prepaid taxi counter, as shared cars are scarce at the airport.
• From Siliguri: about 65 to 77 km up the Hill Cart Road (NH 110). The toy train also runs from here.
• By toy train: the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway climbs 88 km from Siliguri and takes around 7 hours from NJP. Go for the ride, not for speed.
• To Risheehat: about 14 to 15 km east of the town; arrange a pickup with your host.

• September to November: the main season, with the clearest skies from about October.
• April to May: the spring season, mild and green, though often hazier.
• December to February: cold but often very clear. January days peak at around 11°C.
• June to September: about 80 percent of the year's rain falls in these months, July is the wettest, and landslides often disrupt roads and the railway.

• Tiger Hill: about 11 km from town at around 2,590 m. At sunrise Kanchenjunga lights up first, and on clear days Everest, Makalu and Lhotse are visible in the far west.
• Batasia Loop: a spiral of the toy-train line below Ghum, about 5 km from town, built in 1919. It has a memorial to Gorkha soldiers.
• Ghum: the highest station on the line at about 2,300 m. Ghoom Monastery is about 8 km from town.
• Darjeeling Himalayan Railway: a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, running since 1881. The short joy ride is the easiest way to sample it.
• Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park: known for breeding red pandas and other Himalayan species. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, founded in 1954, is next door.
• Observatory Hill and the Mahakal Temple, shared by Hindu and Buddhist worshippers, just above Chowrasta, the town's open square.
• Japanese Peace Pagoda, built in 1992.
• Lloyd Botanic Garden, founded in 1878.
• Tea estates on the slopes below town, several of which welcome visitors.

• Permits: none needed for Darjeeling.
• Getting around: the town has no public bus service. Walking and shared or reserved taxis are how locals move.
• Cash: draw cash in town before heading out to the villages.
• Monsoon: landslides can close the road and the railway between June and September, so keep a buffer day.
• Sunrise trips: Tiger Hill cars leave well before dawn and the viewpoint gets crowded in season. Go on a clear morning and dress warmly.
• Darjeeling Carnival: a ten-day event usually held in November.

On day 1, drive up from NJP and settle in at Risheehat. On day 2, go to Tiger Hill for sunrise, then Ghum, Batasia Loop, the zoo and HMI. On day 3, ride the toy train, walk Chowrasta and Observatory Hill, and visit a tea estate. On day 4, take an unhurried village walk before heading down.

How far is Darjeeling from NJP?
About 70 km by road, usually 3 to 3.5 hours. The toy train takes around 7 hours.

When can you see Kanchenjunga from Darjeeling?
Most reliably from October to December, and often on clear winter mornings. Monsoon cloud usually hides it from June to September.

Where is Risheehat?
Risheehat is a tea-estate village about 14 to 15 km east of Darjeeling town, facing Kanchenjunga.

Is the toy train worth it?
For the experience, yes. The full run is slow, so most travellers take the short joy ride via Batasia Loop and Ghum.

How many days do I need in Darjeeling?
Three nights covers Tiger Hill, the toy train, the zoo and a tea estate without rushing.

Do I need a permit for Darjeeling?
No. Permits only come into play if you continue into Sikkim's restricted areas.