Nagrakata

Nagrakata is a Dooars village and block headquarters in the Malbazar subdivision of Jalpaiguri district, West Bengal, sitting at about 214 m among tea estates just east of the Jaldhaka river. It makes a quiet base for the Chapramari and Gorumara forests, the Jhalong and Bindu river valley on the Bhutan border and the tea-garden hills of Samsing, a short drive from the busier Lataguri side.

Our stay is a small resort with a choice of room styles.

• Royal Eco Hut, Nagrakata: thirteen rooms across ground-floor and first-floor rooms, bamboo cottages on the second floor, a single premium glass tower room and pet-friendly cottages, from about Rs 2,400 per room. Home-style meals are available but not included in the room rate. Bird watching, village walks, bonfires and jungle safaris can be arranged, and the setting has forest and river views.

It is a homestay in Nagrakata in spirit, run by hosts who know the area, for travellers who would rather hear birds than traffic.

• From NJP or Siliguri: drive to Chalsa, about 60 to 65 km, roughly two hours. From Chalsa the highway runs east for about 12 km through the Chapramari forest, crosses the Jaldhaka and reaches Nagrakata.
• From Bagdogra: about 75 km to Chalsa, then the same 12 km on.
• By train: Nagrakata has its own station on the New Jalpaiguri to Alipurduar line.
• Nearest towns: Chalsa, about 12 km away, and Malbazar, about 30 km beyond Chalsa.

October to early April. Winter is cool and dry, and spring brings the sal forest into flower and more animals to the waterholes. The national parks close to tourists for the monsoon, from mid-June to mid-September.

• Chapramari forest: the road between Chalsa and Nagrakata runs through it for about 12 km, between the Murti and Jaldhaka rivers; elephants and gaur are often seen, and it is good birding country.
• Gorumara National Park: entered from Lataguri, about 15 to 20 km from Chalsa. Open-jeep safaris run early morning and late afternoon with a licensed guide, to watchtowers such as Jatraprasad, where rhinos, elephants and gaur come to the salt lick.
• Jhalong and Bindu: turn off the highway at Khunia More, about 10 minutes from Nagrakata, and drive through Chapramari for about 23 km to Jhalong bazaar on the Jaldhaka. Bindu lies further up, at the head of the valley on the Bhutan border.
• Samsing and Suntalekhola: about 15 km north of Chalsa, with Suntalekhola 4 to 5 km beyond, for forest walks and tea-garden views.
• Tea estates: Nagrakata is surrounded by them; ask your hosts about visiting a working garden.
• Jaldapara: about 73 km east of Chalsa via Nagrakata, Banarhat and Birpara, for a longer day.

• Permits and safaris: forest entry permits are mandatory and Gorumara safaris must be booked in advance, through the Lataguri forest office or authorised agents.
• Elephants: the highway through Chapramari is an elephant crossing. Drive slowly and never stop to approach a herd.
• Monsoon: the parks close and Dooars rivers rise quickly. Check road conditions before travelling.
• Cash: carry enough from Malbazar or Siliguri.

• Day 1: NJP to Nagrakata through Chapramari; evening walk.
• Day 2: Morning safari in Gorumara, afternoon at a tea garden.
• Day 3: Jhalong and Bindu along the Jaldhaka.

Where is Nagrakata?
Nagrakata is a village in the Malbazar subdivision of Jalpaiguri district in the Dooars, West Bengal, about 12 km east of Chalsa beyond the Jaldhaka river.

How far is Nagrakata from NJP?
Chalsa is about 60 to 65 km from NJP, roughly two hours, and Nagrakata is about 12 km further east through the Chapramari forest.

Is Nagrakata near Gorumara?
Yes. Gorumara National Park is entered from Lataguri, about 15 to 20 km from Chalsa, which is about 12 km from Nagrakata.

When are the Dooars national parks closed?
Gorumara and the other parks close for the monsoon, from mid-June to mid-September.

How do I get from Nagrakata to Jhalong and Bindu?
Turn off at Khunia More, about 10 minutes away, and drive about 23 km through Chapramari to Jhalong; Bindu is further up the Jaldhaka valley.

Where can I stay in Nagrakata?
Royal Eco Hut, listed on Broz Stays, has rooms, bamboo cottages and a glass tower room from about Rs 2,400 per room.