Pabong

Pabong is a small village at about 4,700 ft in West Bengal's Kalimpong district. It sits among the pine forests on the edge of Neora Valley National Park, about 80 km from NJP. Travellers come for the paddy terraces, birdsong, clear-weather views of the Kanchenjunga range and the quiet of a place that has only homestays and very few visitors.

It also makes an easy base for the offbeat villages around it: Charkhole, Lolegaon and Lava are all within a short drive.

Homestays are the only accommodation in Pabong, and that is a large part of its charm.

• The 5th Cloud Homes Pabong: also known as Basnet Homestay, at Lulagaon Khasmahal. It has four deluxe rooms, each sleeping up to four, and a spacious balcony for morning tea with the hills. Home-cooked meals are made in the family kitchen, and there is free Wi-Fi and parking. It welcomes families, couples, older travellers and pets. Rooms start at ₹1,500 per person; ask what your rate covers when you book.

• From NJP: about 80 km, roughly 3 hours by car. The usual approaches are via Kalimpong, or through the Dooars plains via Bagrakot and up through Chuikhim towards Charkhole.
• From Bagdogra: also about 80 km and around 3 hours, by the same roads.
• From Siliguri: Siliguri town is only minutes from NJP, so plan on the same 3 hours. Shared taxis rarely run all the way to Pabong. Hire a car, or take a shared jeep to Kalimpong and a local car from there.
• From Kalimpong: our hosts put Pabong about 28 km away, 1 to 1.5 hours by road.

The last stretch is a narrow hill road, so a private car booked end to end is by far the easiest option.

• October to February: the clearest Kanchenjunga views, with cold mornings and nights.
• March to May: rhododendrons and wildflowers in bloom, and mild days.
• June to September: very green, but the hill roads turn slippery. Allow extra time and be flexible.

• Khani waterfall: about 3.5 km from the homestay, around 15 minutes by car.
• Charkhole: the neighbouring village, 2 to 3 km away, a 15 to 20 minute walk through a strip of forest. Its Gamphus Dara viewpoint is the place for sunrise over the Kanchenjunga range.
• Lolegaon: about 25 km away, known for its canopy walk through old forest.
• Lava: about 35 km away, with its monastery, and the gateway to Neora Valley National Park.
• Kolakham: a flower-filled hamlet right on the edge of Neora Valley.
• Deolo Park, Kalimpong: about 30 km and 1 to 1.5 hours away, a hilltop park with wide views over the valleys.
• Day trips to Rishop, Kaffergaon or Kalimpong town.
• Birding and village walks: look out for Indian rollers, scarlet minivets, sunbirds and swallows around the fields.

• Permits: none needed. Pabong is in West Bengal.
• Transport: there is no regular public transport to the village, so book your car in advance for both arrival and departure.
• Cash and supplies: shops are few, so bring cash, medicines and snacks from Kalimpong or Siliguri.
• Weather: at around 4,700 ft the climate is mild for most of the year, but pack a warm layer for evenings from October to March.
• Monsoon: the hill roads get slippery and landslides can slow the drive, so travel in daylight.

On day 1, drive up from NJP and settle in for sunset from the balcony. On day 2, walk to Charkhole for sunrise at Gamphus Dara, then visit Khani waterfall in the afternoon. On day 3, drive to Lolegaon and Lava before heading back down, or carry on towards Kalimpong.

Where is Pabong?
Pabong is a village in West Bengal's Kalimpong district, at about 4,700 ft, among the pine forests of Neora Valley National Park.

How far is Pabong from NJP?
About 80 km, roughly 3 hours by car. Bagdogra is a similar distance.

Is there public transport to Pabong?
Shared taxis rarely run on this route, so hire a car from NJP or Bagdogra, or take a local car from Kalimpong.

What is the difference between Pabong and Charkhole?
They are neighbouring villages 2 to 3 km apart, separated by a strip of forest. Many travellers stay in one and walk to the other.

Can you see Kanchenjunga from Pabong?
Yes, on clear days. October to February gives the best chance.

Is a homestay in Pabong good for families?
Yes. The 5th Cloud Homes has four rooms that each sleep up to four, with parking and home-cooked meals.