Gangtok

Gangtok is the capital of Sikkim, a ridge-top city at about 1,650 m (5,410 ft), roughly 120 km by road from NJP. Travellers come for its monasteries and Kanchenjunga viewpoints, the car-free MG Marg, and its role as the base for permits and trips to Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La and North Sikkim.

It is a busy city, so pick a base clear of the traffic, with parking and the taxi stands close by. The early starts are much easier from there.

Both our stays are small hotels in Burtuk, near the helipad off the Indira Bypass on the northern edge of town.

• BroZ Nazom Retreat: twelve 220 sq ft deluxe rooms, each with a king bed, attached bathroom, smart TV and kettle, and a heater for the cold months. Six of the rooms face the hills, so ask for one when you book. All meals are included in veg and non-veg, from ₹1,200 per person. There is parking on site, the Vajra bus and taxi stand is a 650 m walk, and pets are welcome for a small charge.
• GTK 102 Premium Hill View Stay: thirteen rooms, split between hill-view deluxe rooms, quad rooms for families of four and quieter non-view doubles. It has free Wi-Fi, free parking and a restaurant, and rooms are sold room-only from ₹1,500 per person.

If you were hoping for a homestay in Gangtok, these are run with much the same personal touch, with the convenience of a town address.

• From NJP: about 120 km along NH 10 by the Teesta, roughly 4 to 4.5 hours. Shared taxis leave from the SNT stand in Siliguri and thin out after about 2 pm.
• From Bagdogra: about 124 km, 4 to 5 hours by road. Shared cabs and SNT buses also run from the airport.
• From Siliguri: about 114 km. Traffic jams in Siliguri can add hours, so leave early.
• Pakyong airport: about 35 km away, but its flights have been irregular and often weather-hit. Check the current status before you plan around it.

• October to December: the clearest mountain views.
• March to May: flowering season and the flower show at the Plant Conservatory.
• January to February: cold and quiet, with snow at the higher passes. Snow in Gangtok itself is rare.
• June to September: monsoon rain, fog and landslides on NH 10, worst in July and August.

Distances below are from our Burtuk stays or from the town centre.

• Tashi View Point: about 3.6 km from Burtuk. Go by 7 am for Kanchenjunga before the clouds rise.
• MG Marg: about 3.8 km. A pedestrian street kept smoke-free and litter-free, liveliest in the evening.
• Gonjang Monastery: about 5.6 km from Burtuk.
• Ban Jhakri Falls: a waterfall park about 9.3 km away.
• Enchey Monastery: about 3 km from town, built in 1840 and the city's oldest monastery.
• Namgyal Institute of Tibetology and Do-Drul Chorten: about 2 km from the centre, with Buddhist icons, scriptures and thangkas.
• Ganesh Tok and Hanuman Tok: hilltop temples and viewpoints about 3 km apart.
• Gangtok Ropeway: runs between Deorali, Namnang and Tashiling, about 1 km from MG Marg.
• Rumtek Monastery: about 24 to 26 km out.
• Tsomgo Lake: about 38 km away at roughly 3,750 m, a day trip on a permit.

• Permits for Indians: no permit is needed for Gangtok, only a government photo ID. Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La and North Sikkim, including Lachung, need a Protected Area Permit. Registered tour operators arrange it, with their own vehicle and driver, usually within a day.
• Foreign nationals: you need a Restricted Area Permit to enter Sikkim. Nathu La is closed to you, so check current rules for other protected areas.
• Network: the main networks have 4G in town.
• Roads: NH 10 is the only main link and closes after heavy rain. Build a spare day into a monsoon trip.
• Altitude: Gangtok is comfortable, but Tsomgo and Nathu La are high. Go slowly there and come back the same day.

On day 1, arrive from NJP and spend the evening on MG Marg. On day 2, see Tashi View Point at dawn, then Enchey, the Tibetology institute, Do-Drul Chorten, the ropeway and Hanuman Tok. On day 3, take a permit day trip to Tsomgo Lake. On day 4, visit Rumtek, or set off for Lachung or Pelling from the Vajra stand.

How far is Gangtok from NJP?
About 120 km along NH 10, usually 4 to 4.5 hours, and longer in Siliguri traffic.

Do Indians need a permit for Gangtok?
No, just a government photo ID. Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La and North Sikkim need a Protected Area Permit arranged through a registered operator.

Where is Burtuk?
Burtuk is a residential area near the helipad off the Indira Bypass, on the northern edge of Gangtok. MG Marg is about 3.8 km away.

When is the best time to visit Gangtok?
October to December for clear views, and March to May for flowers. Avoid July and August if you can.

How far is Tsomgo Lake from Gangtok?
About 38 km, a half-day or day trip on a permit.

Is there a homestay in Gangtok with meals included?
BroZ Nazom Retreat is a small hotel rather than a homestay, but its rates include all three meals.