Kalimpong

Kalimpong is a hill town of about 1,250 m in the Kalimpong district of West Bengal, set on a ridge between Deolo and Durpin hills with the Teesta river far below. People come for the monasteries, the flower and cactus nurseries, the colonial churches and schools, and the Kanchenjunga views from Deolo, in a town that is calmer and greener than Darjeeling.

Kalimpong was ruled by Sikkim and Bhutan until the Treaty of Sinchula in 1865 handed it to the British, after which it grew into the busiest market for wool, furs and grain coming over the Jelep La and Nathu La from Tibet. That trade ended when the Jelep La closed in 1962, but the Tibetan monasteries and the mission schools remain.

Our stay is in Samalbong, a village in the Kalimpong-I block, away from the town's traffic.

• Tibetan Villa Samalbong: a homestay with Swiss cottages and duplex villas set among forest and greenery, about 300 m on foot from the Necklace Viewpoint. All meals are included and cooked Bengali style, from about Rs 1,600 per person, and there are bird walks, village walks and bonfires in the evening. It welcomes families, couples, older guests and pets, with free Wi-Fi and parking.

It is a homestay in Kalimpong for people who want the hills without the town, and Bengali home food at the end of the day.

• From NJP: about 75 km to the town; our Samalbong stay is about three hours' drive from NJP.
• From Siliguri: about 66 to 67 km, with shared jeeps and private taxis through the day.
• From Bagdogra: about 78 to 80 km, three to four hours by taxi.
• From Pakyong airport (Sikkim): about 56 km.
• From Darjeeling: about 50 km of winding road down to the Teesta and up again.
• Rail: Sevoke junction is about 45 km away, but most travellers use NJP.

Spring and summer are the most popular seasons, with mild days and the nurseries in bloom; many nurseries hold flower exhibitions in October. Winters, December to February, are cool, with lows around 8 degrees Celsius and frequent fog. The monsoon, June to September, brings heavy rain and landslides, so build in time if you travel then.

• Deolo Hill: the highest point, at about 1,704 m, an open park with Kanchenjunga views on clear days.
• Zang Dhok Palri Phodang (Durpin Monastery): on Durpin Hill, consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1976, with views over the Teesta.
• Thongsa Gompa: Kalimpong's oldest monastery, founded in 1678, with more than 200 prayer wheels.
• Dr Graham's Homes: the school founded in 1900 by the Scottish missionary Rev. J. A. Graham, with a chapel of stained glass.
• Morgan House: a colonial bungalow now run as a tourist lodge.
• Nurseries: Pine View Nursery is known for its large cactus collection, and about 300 orchid species grow around the town.
• Near our stay: the Necklace Viewpoint, a 5-minute walk, and Khani Khola Waterfall, about 5 km and 10 minutes away.

• Roads: Kalimpong's approach roads follow the Teesta and are prone to landslides in the monsoon. Check before you set out.
• Silk Route: the old trade road to Tibet ran from Kalimpong via Pedong, Rishikhola, Aritar and Zuluk. A permit is needed for Zuluk, issued at Rongli.

• Day 1: NJP to Samalbong; sunset at the Necklace Viewpoint.
• Day 2: Deolo, Durpin Monastery, Dr Graham's Homes and a nursery.
• Day 3: Khani Khola Waterfall, then on to the Silk Route or back to Siliguri.

Where is Kalimpong?
Kalimpong is a hill town in the Kalimpong district of West Bengal, on a ridge at about 1,250 m above the Teesta river, about 75 km from NJP.

How far is Kalimpong from Bagdogra airport?
About 78 to 80 km, a drive of three to four hours.

What is Kalimpong famous for?
Its Buddhist monasteries, flower and cactus nurseries, colonial schools and churches, and its history as the main India-Tibet wool trading town.

When should I avoid visiting Kalimpong?
Peak monsoon, June to September, when heavy rain often causes landslides on the hill roads.

Is Samalbong near Kalimpong?
Yes. Samalbong is a village in the Kalimpong-I block, and our stay there is about three hours' drive from NJP.

Is there a homestay near Kalimpong with meals included?
Yes. Tibetan Villa Samalbong, on Broz Stays, includes all meals, cooked Bengali style, from about Rs 1,600 per person.